Resolving Conflict Between Cats in Your Home
Cats react when their feeling of safety is threatened, and in a multi-cat home, the threat is often another cat. Conflict between cats is one of the most common behavior problems veterinarians see. It is also one of the most often missed, because much of it is silent. By learning the signs, the causes, and the treatment options, you can reduce conflict and create a calmer home for every cat in it.
Signs of Conflict Between Cats
Open fighting, with hissing, swatting, and chasing, is easy to recognize. Silent conflict is far more common. One cat quietly controls access to food, litter boxes, or favorite resting places, and the other cat gives way. Owners often describe these cats as "getting along fine" because nobody is fighting.
The Assertive Cat
- Never backs away from other cats
- Stares at other cats
- Denies other cats access to resources, for example by sitting in a doorway or near the litter box
- Rubs its cheeks, head, chin, and tail on people, doorways, and furniture at cat height
- When it sees the other cat, may lower its head and neck, raise its hindquarters, and stalk, with the hair along its back and tail standing on end, and may growl or spray urine
The Threatened Cat
- Spends large amounts of time hiding or away from the family
- Avoids eye contact with other cats
- Gives up resources to other cats
- Crouches, and may then flee
- Usually does not vocalize
- May develop stress-related illness, such as cystitis (bladder inflammation), or stop using the litter box
Types of Conflict
- Offensive conflict: the more confident cat moves toward other cats to control the interaction.
- Defensive conflict: a cat tries to increase the distance between itself and a perceived threat.
- Redirected conflict: a cat that is aroused or frightened by something it cannot reach, such as an outdoor cat seen through a window, turns on a nearby cat or person instead.
Causes of Conflict
- Competition for resources such as space, food, water, litter boxes, perches, sunny spots, safe hiding places, or attention from people
- A new cat joining the household, especially when the introduction was rushed
- Social maturity: cats reach social maturity between roughly 2 and 4 years of age, and cats who got along as youngsters may start to clash at this stage
- Silent tension between cats who have known each other since kittenhood but have become unevenly matched in confidence
- A change in one cat's smell, for example after a veterinary visit or grooming, which can make a familiar cat seem like a stranger for a while
- Pain or illness in one of the cats, which can make it irritable or unable to get out of the way
How to Reduce Conflict
Treatment works on three fronts: removing the competition that drives conflict, managing encounters so fights do not happen, and rebuilding the cats' relationship slowly.
Give Every Cat Its Own Resources
The most effective step is to make sure no cat has to compete. Provide a separate set of resources for each cat, spread out so each set can be used without being seen by the other cats:
- Food and water stations in different rooms
- Litter boxes in different locations, one per cat plus one extra
- Scratching posts, beds, and hiding places in several rooms
- Plenty of vertical space, such as cat trees, shelves, and window perches, so cats can share a room at different heights
Cardboard boxes and extra perches are an inexpensive way to add space and escape routes quickly. Avoid dead ends, such as a litter box in a closet, where one cat can trap another.
Manage Encounters
- Separate the cats when you cannot supervise them.
- Never let cats "fight it out." Fights make conflict worse, not better, and cats can seriously injure each other.
- Interrupt a tense stare-down calmly by tossing a toy or making a sound in another direction, not by grabbing or punishing either cat.
- Keep nails trimmed short to limit injuries, and have all cats spayed or neutered.
- Give each cat individual play sessions to burn off energy and build confidence.
Reintroduce Cats Gradually
If fighting has been serious, the cats may need to be separated and reintroduced step by step, the same way you would introduce a new cat:
- House the cats in separate areas, each with a full set of resources.
- Swap their bedding so each cat gets used to the other's scent without having to meet.
- Feed them on opposite sides of a closed door, moving the bowls closer over several days as long as both cats keep eating calmly.
- Allow them to see each other through a baby gate or a door opened a crack, pairing each sighting with treats or play.
- Let them share a room for short, supervised periods, ending each session before either cat becomes tense.
This process can take days or weeks. Go at the pace of the more worried cat, and step back a stage if you see hissing, staring, or hiding.
Ask About Additional Help
Synthetic feline pheromone diffusers designed for multi-cat homes help some households. In severe cases, your veterinarian may recommend anti-anxiety medication for one or more cats. Medication works best alongside the environmental changes above, not in place of them.
Conflict With Other Animals
Cats perceive dogs as potential predators. Make sure your cat can always escape from the dog, with high perches, cat-only rooms behind a gate, and food and litter the dog cannot reach. Teach children and guests to let the cat approach them, never the other way around.
Conflict with outdoor cats is a common and overlooked cause of stress, marking, and redirected aggression indoors. If a cat outside is visiting your yard, block your cat's view of that area with window film or by moving furniture, avoid leaving food outside, and use humane deterrents to make your yard less attractive to visiting cats.
When to Call Your Veterinarian
Call your veterinarian if a cat is injured in a fight, if conflict starts suddenly between cats who used to get along, or if any cat stops eating, hides constantly, or urinates outside the litter box. Sudden aggression can be caused by pain or illness, and stress from conflict can cause real medical problems, especially bladder inflammation. Your veterinarian can check for medical causes and, if needed, refer you to a veterinary behaviorist.